Birding trip to North Eastern part of India can never be dull especially if lead by an experienced birder like Shashank and done in company of non competitive birders. But before I begin the trip report, which shall be serialised i.e. submitted in parts (with characters introduced as the story progresses), let me share some insights and useful tips for all those planning their maiden birding trip to Eaglenest:
- It rains. period. when its not pouring, its raining, when not raining its drizzling, when not drizzling, its a pitter patter, when not a pitter patter, there are plans of pitter patter in the sky. So carry rain gear, and if possible multiple rain gear because there is no way on earth for stuff to dry.
- It is cold. No matter what your birding guide tells you - "its only 10 degrees c'mon guys"
- For those in love with their cameras with bazooka lenses, unless you are willing to risk stress fracture, no point in carrying anything that you can't hold (for significant lengths of time) in your hand because the birds (and there are multiple species flitting about simultaneously) simply wont stay put and when they do, it is in places that are hard to see much less reach, coupled with rainy and foggy and cloudy weather, its better to be a birder with binocs then a birder with camera. But when you do get a shot, you are in heaven!
- Be prepared for species, sub species, more splits - official, upcoming, desirable - basically we can have lifers all our life
- Ensure all flaps of your tents including floor are properly closed (more on this later)
Of course I didn't know any of this when I started out at 3 AM on the assigned date. Groggy and irritated I picked all my stuff or so I imagined and headed off to the airport. After body twisting nap in the aircraft, I landed in Gauhati and met Soma who was the first of our group to arrive. She was carrying the very necessary leech socks that Gururaj Moorching had delivered to her despite his inability to join us due to his illness. He had travelled from Bhubaneshwar to Calcutta just so that we may not face discomfort of leech bites! What a guy! We pary for his speedy recovery.
Chatting Soma up I realised my cardinal sin - I had left my camera battery and the charger on the table! Soma sportingly offered the use of her standby Nikon. What a generous soul!
At the risk of repeating myself throughout the report and on other occasions, I cannot but help admit that in the birding fraternity I have met some the most wonderful people.
As nothing more could be done at 8 AM and others were to arrive almost 2 hours later, Soma and I headed towards Deepor Bheel just outside Gauhati for a short birding trip. It was a cloudy morning with a soft drizzle. At the Bheel we got the Striated Grassbird, River Tern, a heavily streaked Pipit that we think was Rosy Pipit and lots of Martins that we were not sure of. Turns out they were Grey Throated Martins (a cousin of Brown Throated Martins) and a lifer! for both of us! Soma getting a lifer was something. She is very close to the magical number - 1000 species - in India
As the rain fell harder and as we couldn't do any more birding, Soma helpfully agreed to my suggestion to look for battery in the city. When we finally found the shop, after half hour of searching they came up with naught! Desperate to get some record shots I agreed to buy a point and shoot camera and guess what! their credit card machines wouldn't work, ATM machines were out of money and we were rocked by an earthquake, phew! A full hour later we were off to meet the others, who in the meantime had landed and proceeded towards Nameri.
Eager to catch up with them we too headed off and group finally met over fabulous Assamese Thali lunch at Maihang Restaurant. Meet Bharati Chaturvedi, Sanjay Tiwari, Jassi Jassal and Radhika Jassal - our fellow birders on the journey to Eaglenest. Having sated our hunger on fish curry, Baigun Bhaja, Aloo Bharta, Chana Dal, rice and sabudana kheer, we set off in high spirits. Birding began in real earnest as we ticked off Open Bills, Black Shouldered Kites, Eurasian Collared doves, pond herons etc. and then we spotted our first Lesser Adjutant Stork. New and old cameras alike were whipped out for testing and were declared satisfactory. Rest of the journey was uneventful interrupted by brief conversation as we got to know our companions.
We reached Nameri around 5 PM where our Guruji - Shashank Dalvi waited for us at the Jia Bhoraili Resort. Without further ado, we set off to catch our first glimpse of the Great Hornbill. Eyes and cameras trained, the Hornbill tested our patience. To keep us occupied and also because he can't help but notice all bird calls, we were introduced to the sounds and sometimes sights of various birds. Dollarbirds fought with Jungle and Hill Myna, Indian Roller (species split I think from Northern one) dived on Jungle Mynas, Red Breasted Parakeets raucously flew overhead, Indian Cuckoo called ceaselessly and yet no Hornbill!
With fading light and hope we returned to camp where Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Red Vented bulbul (with brownish thingy on face) welcomed us with their songs. The call of Spotted Owlet joined in as night fell. Tired, ready to eat and sleep, Shashank sprang a surprise on us - we had a test!
We were presented with two images - trust me they looked identical to all of us - and we were asked to identify the two birds. Really! What followed was an amazing workshop on Warbler ID - a trend that was to continue through out the trip. BTW we now know what they were, but our lips are sealed for the moment :)
Bikram we have a question for the next bird quiz!
Baki break ke baad
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